Spain likes to set things aflame. The Las Fallas celebration in Valencia is probably the best known example when world-famous parade floats go up in flames every March. But our late December lunch at Paco Gandia Restaurante in Pinoso, Spain was a real demonstration of holding your hand to the fire the likes of which I had never seen.
A last-minute restaurant choice in late December required a caravan of cars to transport Chef María José San Román’s extended family on a one-hour ride into the countryside. We were on a mission to celebrate Jonathan North’s birthday with some of the best paella in Spain. Naturally, María knew where to find it but to describe our location as obscure would be a bit of an understatement. Winding roads and a few wrong turns eventually took us to town, then it required a quick conversation with the local law enforcement (who happened to be standing on the corner) to guide us the rest of the way.
Chef Josefa Navarro Garcia and husband, Francisco R. Gandia Sanchis, run a tiny restaurant that has a long-standing reputation for serving world-class paella. In past years, I’ve been satisfied to follow paella recipes suited to a stovetop. Now that I’ve seen the real operation, I’ll never underestimate the skill it takes to craft a great one.
In a kitchen so white and clean that it could have doubled for an operating room, Josefa tended three rip-roaring fires for 20 minutes non-stop as the paellas slowly bubbled to a perfect consistency. Using bundles of dried grape vines as tender, she continually fed the fire to keep the flames licking up and around the 30″ wide pans. With years of experience, I saw her test for flavor only once and add a smidgen of salt.
We began the afternoon with a wonderful platter of appetizers including pickled onions, asparagus, anchovies, dried ham, peppers, eggs, olives, lettuces, tomatoes and tiny white sardines. Without further ado, it was onto the main event accompanied by a great Monastrell wine from Bodega El Sequé selected by Pitu Perramon, María’s husband. Two paella variations: vegetarian-style emboldened with artichokes and an intense shrimp-based broth; and a traditional rabbit, snail and saffron paella lined the long table. While the traditional style might have been the crowd’s favorite, I just couldn’t decide and so had plenty of both. Finally, it was on the another platter of desserts, large and small, and a little cortado to finish it off. A perfect ending to a perfect paella party, all thanks to Jonathan for providing the occasion.
